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Do You Need to Wash Plastic Models? (Shinden Brush Painting Lesson, Part 3)

To verify the sentiment that we poured into the Shinden, please begin by first taking one in your hands.

Good evening, everyone!
This is Developer T, who is thinking of trying to go back home for a visit tomorrow!

Im thinking of getting on the earliest Shinkansen tomorrow morning, in order to visit the family graves and such!
Its Obon, after all. ^^

That said, today is the final installment going over the preliminary work!

First, please begin by going over the contents of the previous entry.

Click here for the previous entry.

Now, in order to actually build Shinden, I will go over the minimum tools required to build a plastic model, as well as those tools which are simply convenient to have.

Things which you are familiar with, and possibly those with which you are not??

Tools Recommended for Building Plastic Models

1) Snips (such as the Tamiya Side Cutter for Plastic)
2) Art Knife (an X-acto Knife or a Design Knife are also OK)
3) File
4) Pin Vice (a small drill between 0.8mm~1mm)
5) Sandpaper (400 grit = sanding, 600 grit = scratch removal, 1000 grit = finishing)
6) Masking Tape
7) Toothbrush (a worn-out brush is OK)
8) Dishwashing Detergent
9) Mr. Mark Setter (increases decal adhesiveness)
10) Mr. Mark Softer (softens decals)
11) Glue (a liquid adhesive such as Mr. Cement S is best, but normal glue is also OK)
12) Vallejo Thinner (for diluting paint, and for establishing surface tension)
13) Instant Glue
14) Instant Glue Hardening Accelerant Spray
15) Paint Trays
16) Plastic Droppers
17) Paintbrushes (best to have flat, medium, and thin brushes)

Are you feeling uneasy about 7) and 8) on the list, the toothbrush and the detergent?

7) Toothbrush comes in handy when cleaning sanding residue off of 3) File or the parts, and in addition to that, above all, its very useful in combination with 8) Dishwashing Detergent to wash the parts!

Please be careful, because if you use too much force, the parts will break off the sprues! ><

You may feel that, Eh? Even though its a plastic model, you still have to wash it? but putting aside domestic Japanese manufacturers such as Bandai, Tamiya, and Hasegawa, kits from overseas manufacturers usually still have mold release agent remaining on the parts, so that like garage kits, they cannot be painted as-is lest the paint be repelled and bead up on the surface. (This sometimes happens even with domestic manufacturers.)

Vallejo in particular is water-based, and if the paint is thinned with just a little too much water, its very easy for it to bead up, so lets use detergent and wash all the parts thoroughly.

Approximately, you should wash the parts until the slipperiness goes away; if the parts are squeaky-clean when you rub them with your fingers, then you should be OK.

For those accustomed to building scale models, washing the parts may seem like a rather obvious thing to do, but from the point of view of those accustomed to building domestically produced character models, the first thing to come to mind may be something like, Eh~, but its not even a garage kit, right?

Even when making character models, I think that thorough hobbyists will still remove flash and perform necessary washing, so rather than worrying about it, I do recommend washing the parts, as an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Now then, before we get into the actual work, I would like to go over an important point.

First, it can be difficult to insert the blades of the snips into finely detailed places, and if you try to force them in in order to cut out the parts, you can get yourself into trouble by cutting something that shouldnt have been cut.


For complicated spots, leave behind the excess when cutting out the parts!

Even when the part has been separated from the sprue, dont force it – leave behind a little excess when further cutting out the part.

This part still has small bits of the connections between part and sprue, called gate trim, remaining.

Finally, everything will be fine if you cut off the gate trim using a design knife.

This method may be a little roundabout, but this way, theres fewer errors, and things will be easier for you later on, so Ill be happy if you keep this point in mind.

Well then, next time we will finally begin the actual assembling and painting!

Before then, I will be returning to my family home this weekend, so I ask for your understanding if updates become a little sporadic.

So, next time~ Ɏ
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